Bal Yogi

Bal Yogi

 

The Architects of New Delhi, Sir Edwin Lutyens and Sir Herbert Baker are said to have drawn inspiration from the ancient ‘Chausath Yogini Temple’ in Morena (now in Madhya Pradesh), for the design for Indian Parliament House.   A comparison of the pictures of the two structures in fact reveal a close resemblance.  The temple itself known as the ‘Ekattarso Mahadeva’ Temple and  had been constructed in 1323 CE by Maharaja Deva Pala of the Kacchapagata dynasty.  The temple has a hoary association with astrology and mathematics and its construction predates that of the (now Old) Parliament building by almost 900 years.

There are four existing ‘Chausath Yogini’ Temples in India -  two each in the States of Madhya Pradesh and Odisha, all four of which have withstood the ravages of marauders. They stand tall till this day in silent testimony to a glorious past where the Arts, Sciences and Religion merged, and creative energies abounded.

The Chausath Yogini Temple located on a hilltop above the river Narmada in Bhedaghat near Jabalpur, also known as the Golaki Math ("circular lodge") is the other of the two located in Madhya Pradesh.  Notwithstanding its name, temple is a shrine for not 64 but 81 Yoginis – an auspicious number that signifies the temple having been built by a Royal.

As per the tour itinerary we first visited the spectacular Dhuandhar falls nearby, Then followed a memorable boat ride through a canyon of marble rocks.  Some exhaustion having set in by the time we reached the foot of the temple hill, the hundred or so medieval steps that led to the temple became a rather a weary climb. It was we reached the last of these steps the welcoming voice of Prahlad beckoned us for attention. 

At initial glance, Prahlad seemed a young boy of eight but in his introduction claimed to be fifteen years. However, we were soon to realise that he showed a maturity far beyond his mentioned age. His effusively passionate introduction mentioned facts and facets of history of the region - how the temple came to be built by Madan Shah, the husband of Rani Durgavati, how Aurangzeb had sought to destroy it for which the entry had been deviously attempted through the Temple’s rear door that has since been blocked. The narrative had mention of the temple being the location for a scene from a popular film in which the heroine’s red saree gets drenched and the colour from the saree draining across the heroine’s face.  Prahlad added here that the colour drained as the saree was a product of a Mumbai mill.  If it had been sourced locally from Jabalpur, even if a stage comes when the fabric becomes weak due to wear and tear, the saree’s colour would have stayed bright and steadfast.

Prahlad appeared to have some antipathy with the Temple Priests which became evident with his reluctance to enter the temple precincts.  The Head Priest who we met on entering the sanctum sanctorum though did not seem to be the kind of person who could even harm an ant. 

The significance of the Golaki math temple is that the Deity here represents both Shiva and Parvati riding together on Nandi while on their journey to Kailash after their marriage. There statues of the divine Yoginis were all in circular ring around the temple with gaps for the four gates that Prahlad had mentioned about.

Upon the group emerging out of the Temple gate, Prahlad re-assumed his role of ‘guide’ mentorship.  Throughout the much more pleasant of those hundred steps and brief walk to the parking area, he demonstrated a range of skills - cat and monkey calls, sliding down the railing hooked to his elbow and rapid reeling out of shlokas in mimic of the Priest.  It was with a childlike glee that he held out his hand to grab the many ‘tips’ held out to him. 

When someone asked of what he would do with the money, Prahlad’s response was touching. His father is a poor stone cutter in one of the many statue making units around the base of the hillock. They were a poor family, he said, and money meant a lot to them.

There are several realty shows on TV based on dance and singing competitions that bring to fore immense latent talent the children of our country are blessed with.  If ever there was to be such a competition for child tour guides, Prahlad would undoubtedly be amongst the contenders for the top spot.

Alas. until the time such fortune comes is way, this talented Bal Yogi  would likely continue to be an uncut gemstone of talent and continue rendering ‘service’ to devotees remaining all the while in the constant care and protection of the Sixty-four Yoginis.